对于职场女性而言,所有关于外表的话题都是雷区。女人味既是一种资本,又是一种负担。
Female leaders have little issue defining the rules that lead to success in their various industries. But ask them about the rules dictating how professional women should present themselves to optimize their career goals and there’s a good chance your question will be met with hesitation.
不同行业的女性领袖通常能毫不费力地给出通往成功的秘诀。不过如果你问她们,职场女性应当树立怎样的形象,才更利于实现职业目标,她们很可能就不知从何答起了。
Why? For women in the workplace, the whole appearance topic is nothing short of a contradiction-riddled minefield.
为什么呢?因为对于职场女性而言,所有关于外表的话题都是矛盾重重的雷区。
They’ve been told attractive people are better off. Thanks to an innate human bias that’s become known as the “what is beautiful is good” effect, beautiful employees are seen as more intelligent, more competent, more everything-that’s-good. Attractiveness has been found to lead to more job interviews, more job offers, higher income and greater overall success.
她们被告知,有魅力的人也会有更好的境遇。由于人类与生俱来的爱美之心,人们认为漂亮的员工更聪明职场女性的发型,能力更强,有着更好的一切。更富魅力的人能得到更多面试机会,更容易找到工作,收入更高,就总体而言也更加成功。
But wait! That’s not the whole story.
且慢,情况并非都是这样。
There’s also something known as the “beauty is beastly effect.” Beauty, apparently, can actually work against you. In fact, it can bring you increased discrimination in hiring and on the job, as well as less trust and loyalty when you’re a leader.“Women are in an impossible catch-22 when it comes to advice on appearance,” says Selena Rezvani, author of Pushback and a speaker and consultant on women and leadership. “Most modern advice on appearance suggests you find a perfect balance between acknowledging your femininity but not overemphasizing it. This increasingly thin line is hard to locate for the average woman, let alone translate and personalize. The short message to women is: your femininity is an asset and liability.”
还有一种说法叫“红颜祸水”。显然,美貌也可能对你不利。实际上,在应聘和工作中,美貌可能让你遭受更多歧视,而在你担任领导职位时,它还可能降低下属对你的信赖感和忠诚度。《反推:聪明的女人如何要求并坚持她们想要的》(Pushback)一书的作者、演说家兼女性和领导力顾问赛琳娜•雷兹瓦尼表示:“有关外表的建议往往让女性陷入一种悖论。当今的大多数建议都是女性要适当彰显女人味儿,但不要过分强调它。但是对于大多数女人来说,这个分寸越来越难以把握,要活学活用到自己身上就更难了。简而言之职场女性的发型,女人味既是女性的资本,又是一种负担。”
From makeup to hair color, metrics measuring attractiveness and success are all over the map. Studies in both the U.S. and the U.K. (both sponsored by cosmetics companies, it must be noted) have concluded that the stuff can help you appear more competent on the job. But again, watch out! Wear too much — or not in quite the right way — or just generally look like you’ve spent a lot of time on your grooming, and you might find that you earn less or appear less trustworthy. Going gray has long been considered more of a challenge for women than for men (does it signify experience and wisdom, or just old age?), but even other colors have unspoken connotations. During tough economic times, blonde women have been reported to dye their hair darker so as to be taken more seriously.
从妆容到头发颜色,评判魅力和成功的标准各不相同。在英美两国进行的调查得出了一个结论(必须说明,这些调查都是由化妆品公司赞助的):多穿点可以让你在工作中显得更加能干。但是请注意!穿得太多——或者穿得不合适——或者你貌似花了很多时间来打扮自己,都可能使你的能力看上去大打折扣,或者显得不那么值得信赖。长期以来,人们认为鬓角染霜对女性的挑战大于男性(它意味着经验丰富并且充满智慧,还是仅代表着衰老?),但人们对其它发色也有隐含的解读。据说在经济困难时期,为了获得更多重视,金发女郎会把自己的头发染成深色。
“Whether it’s about our appearance or whether or not to assert ourselves, we’re damned if we do and damned if we don’t,” says Bonnie Marcus, president and CEO of Women’s Success Coaching. “It’s a balancing act that ambitious women need to be aware of.”
女性职业咨询网站Women’s Success Coaching的总裁兼首席执行官邦妮•马库斯表示:“无论我们的外表是否得体,无论我们是否坚持自我,我们怎么做都会遭到非难。有追求的女性需要了解这种平衡之道。”
There’s not an easy solution. “I believe the only general statement you can make about this is that women need to be savvy about the culture of their organization,” Marcus says. As the old saying goes, “dress for the job you want,” she adds.
没有什么简单的解决办法。马库斯表示:“对此你唯一能说的就是:女性需要了解自己公司的文化。”就像一句老话说的那样,“穿上与工作相配的衣服。”她补充道。
Rezvani draws two guiding principles from the most successful women executives she’s worked with. First, “they ‘fit in with flair,’ meaning they generally conform to the look of their work culture or industry and—to a lesser extent—demonstrate their own personal style,” she explains. Second, “they round up, not down, in terms of formality, even as the American workplace gets increasingly casual.”
雷兹瓦尼从曾经和她共事过的最成功的女性高管身上,总结出了两条指导准则。首先,“她们‘能够将时尚融入环境’,这意味着她们通常会让自己的外表符合工作文化或行业形象——并稍微体现出自己的个性,”她解释道。其次,“即便美国的职场着装越来越随意,她们也会在此基础上选择稍微更正式的装扮,而不是更休闲。”
Yahoo CEO Marissa Mayer is a good example, Rezvani says: “Mayer is known for her feminine, modern-chic suits and dresses, a look that telegraphs that she embraces her femininity and appreciates fashion. Yet her ‘flair’ is quiet enough that her clothes don’t detract from her verbal message. She also looks considerably more formal than most in the legendarily casual industry of IT.”
雅虎公司(Yahoo)首席执行官玛丽莎•梅耶尔就是个很好的例子。雷兹瓦尼说:“梅耶尔以时髦别致的正装和连衣裙著名,她的打扮彰显出她的女性特质和时尚品味。这种时髦但又足够低调的着装风格,不会转移人们对她言谈的关注。事实上,在IT这个以着装随意著称的行业中,她的打扮要比大部分人正式得多。”
Neena Newberry, president of Newberry Executive Solutions, says women should think about what they want to be known for. “If someone were to describe you, what are the top three things you’d want them to say?” she explains. “Regardless of the rules, figure out who you want to be and bring it to life in language and appearance.”
高管培训机构Newberry Executive Solutions的总裁妮娜•纽贝里表示,女性需要想清楚,希望别人注意到自己的哪些方面。她解释道:“如果有人要描述你,你最想要他们说出哪三个词?抛开束缚,想清楚你要做什么样的人,并在谈吐和外表上实现它。”
But ultimately, the most successful women don’t get too caught up in all the attractiveness hullabaloo. It is your inner qualities that set you apart, says Erica Ariel Fox, president of Mobius Executive Leadership and author of Winning from Within.
不过最终,那些最成功的女性不会在魅力问题上太受困扰。高管培训机构Mobius Executive Leadership的总裁、《赢在内心》(Winning from Within)的作者艾丽卡•阿里尔•福克斯表示,让你与众不同的是你的内在品质。
“We all know people who stand out because of a sparkle they bring into a room,” Fox says. “That’s what people remember—your spark.”
福克斯说:“我们都知道,人们之所以脱颖而出,是因为他们能在黑暗的房间中点亮火花。人们记住的,是你释放的火花。”
职场服装的搭配往往要求端庄、简单、大方、优雅,本文为大家介绍的职业女性着装的基本原则,职场女性服装搭配技巧就是为你阐述这些内容,告诉你作为一个职业女性该如何穿衣搭配,应该具备怎样的着装礼仪,才能对你的事业以及和上级下级之间的关系处的更好,而且这还会给你的工作带来很多意想不到的惊喜哦。
首先介绍一下职业女性着装的6个基本原则:
职业女性的着装仪表必须符合她本人的个性,体态特征、职位、企业文化、办公环境,志趣等。女性不应该一味模仿办公室里男士的服饰打扮,要有一种“做女人真好的心态”,充分发挥女性特有的柔韧,一扫男士武断独裁。女性的穿着打扮应该灵活有弹性,要学会怎样搭配衣服、鞋子、发型、首饰、化妆,使之完美和谐。最终被别人称赞,应该夸你漂亮而不是说你的衣服好看或鞋子漂亮,那只是东西好看,不是穿着好看。职业套装更显权威,选择一些质地好的套装。要以套装为底色来选择衬衣、毛线衫、鞋子、袜子、围巾、腰带和首饰。每个人的肤色、发色、格调不同,所以适合她的颜色也不同,要选择一些合适自己颜色的套装,再根据套装色为底色配选其它小装饰品。
化妆:化妆可以让女性更具魅力,但不宜浓装颜抹。过度打扮会让人感到做坐,过于简单会让人感到随便,总之有一个原则,每天的打扮必须要迎合你当天要会见的人们,符合他们的身份和专业度, 让自己不寒酸掉价。
清楚了职业女性着装的基本原则,就可以着手开始搭配,下面介绍搭配技巧:
稳重有权威的颜色包括:海军蓝、灰色、碳黑、淡蓝、黑色、栗色、锈色、棕色、驼色;要避免浅黄、粉红、浅格绿或橘红色。少而 精,重质量轻数量,讲究做工和面料,要合身。避免冲动性购买,如果你是属于这样的人,那么要切记你要买的衣服必须和你已买的衣服相配。精打细算,量入为 出,但不可贪图小便宜因小失大。采用一些天然面料如“棉,丝,羊毛等。
随着妇女年龄的增长,头发也应该相应剪短一些,一般来说妇女到了30-35岁这个年龄也最多把头发留到肩部。在职业女性中,染指甲 已经司空见惯了,但指甲油的颜色不应该选得太亮丽,这样会使别人的注意力只集中在你的指甲上,选一些和你口红相配的颜色,有些人喜欢透明色指甲油,它是大 众都能接受的颜色。
不要把旅游鞋穿进办公室;中跟或低跟皮鞋为佳;保养好你的鞋,把她擦的锃亮;鞋的颜色必须和服装的颜色相配,总之有一个原则“鞋子的颜色必须深于衣服颜色,如果比服装颜色浅,那么必须和其他装饰品颜色相配。
职业女性希望表现的是她们的聪明才智,能力和经验等,所以要带首饰就必须是佩带简单首饰,不要带摇摆晃动的耳环或一走路就会发出 声响的项链,这样对专业形象的杀伤力极大。耳环是很重要的首饰,但不宜太长太大;虽然眼镜让人感觉文气,但它抹杀了女性特有的亲和力,比较古板刻薄,可考 虑戴隐形眼睛;手提包要精小细致,不要塞的满满的。
浅色衬衣仍旧有权威性,脖子长的女士不适合穿V型衫,买一两件戴花边的衬衣,体型较胖的女性最好穿一身颜色一样的服装。